Resize Image to Any Size
Set an exact width and height, scale by percent, or fit within a box — one photo or a whole folder, without a single upload.
Every image is resized by canvas in this tab — nothing is uploadedResize to exact width and height, by percent, or to a maximum size
or drag & drop them here, or paste one from your clipboard (Ctrl+V). Drop as many as you like — no file cap, no size cap.
PNG · JPG · WebP · GIF · AVIF
With aspect ratio locked nothing is distorted: each image is scaled to fit inside the width and height you ask for, keeping its shape. Leave one field blank to constrain only the other side. Unlocked, each image is stretched to the exact size you type, even if that changes its proportions.
By default an image is never enlarged: asking for 2000 px on an 800 px image leaves it at 800 px rather than blowing it up. Tick this only if you really want to enlarge — enlarging cannot invent detail that was never captured.
JPEG has no alpha channel. If the source image has transparency, those areas are filled with this colour (white by default) and the result says so.
Results
Choose your images and every file shows up here with its original pixel size, its new size, and the file weight before and after.
How it works
Everything runs in your browser: images are never uploaded, there is no account, no queue and no daily limit. Re-encoding also drops the original EXIF metadata, location included.
About this image resizer
Drop in one image or a whole folder and set the size you need three ways: type an exact width and height in pixels, scale everything by a percentage, or give a maximum box and let each picture shrink to fit inside it while keeping its proportions. The resize happens on an HTML canvas inside this tab — every file is read, redrawn at the new size and handed back for download, with a ZIP when there is more than one. Nothing is uploaded, and there is no cap on how many you process at once.
Each mode answers a different question. Exact pixels is for when something on the other end demands a precise number — a 400×400 avatar, a 1080×1080 square, a banner a template expects to the pixel. Percent is for shrinking a batch uniformly, say every photo to 50%, without doing the arithmetic per file. Fit-within-a-box is the one most people actually want: “no side longer than 1600 pixels” keeps portrait and landscape shots consistent without stretching any of them. An aspect-ratio lock is on by default so you never squash a face by accident; turn it off only when you deliberately want to distort.
You choose the output format and, for JPEG and WebP, a quality level — which is also how you hit a file-size limit. If a form refuses anything over 2 MB, lowering quality a few steps usually clears it without touching the dimensions, because on a photograph quality costs far more bytes than pixels do. PNG is different: it is lossless, so its size is driven by the image content and the pixel count, not by a quality slider. Shrink the dimensions to make a PNG smaller; drop the quality to make a JPEG or WebP smaller.
Printing is where an honest tool has to slow you down. Pixels have no physical size on their own; a centimetre only appears when you also fix a resolution in dots per inch. Ten by fifteen centimetres at the usual 300 DPI is not a setting you type here — it is 1181×1772 pixels, and that is the number you resize to. The DPI figure written into a JPEG is only a note in the header (a canvas-produced file records 96 DPI, per the standard); it changes no pixels, and the print software multiplies it out. So resize to the pixel count the print needs, and set the paper size and DPI in whatever actually prints. The section below has the full table.
Two honest notes to close. Resizing re-encodes the image, which strips the metadata as a side effect: the GPS location, camera model and timestamp your phone wrote in are gone from the resized copy — usually welcome, but if you needed to keep or first inspect them, do that with the EXIF viewer before you resize. And upscaling cannot invent detail: enlarging a small image past its real resolution smooths and softens it rather than adding sharpness. Downscaling is the safe direction, and the one this tool does cleanly.
Pixels, percent, or fit-a-box: choosing the resize mode
“Resize” hides three different operations, and picking the wrong one is how images end up stretched, cropped or needlessly enormous. The mode you want depends entirely on what is asking for the image — a strict template, a uniform batch shrink, or a ceiling that a mixed set of photos has to stay under. This is the map.
| Mode | What it does | Reach for it when |
|---|---|---|
| Exact pixels | Forces a specific width and height. With the aspect lock on, set one side and the other follows; with it off, the image is stretched to fill both | A spec demands an exact size — a 1080×1080 social square, a 400×400 avatar, a 1920×1080 slide |
| Percent | Scales width and height by the same factor, so proportions never change | Shrinking a batch uniformly — every photo to 50% — without computing each file’s new numbers |
| Fit within a box | Scales each image down until neither side exceeds your max width and max height, keeping proportions; images already smaller are left untouched | A ceiling like “longest side 1600 px” across a mixed set of portrait and landscape shots |
| One side fixed | Set the width only (or the height only) and let the other scale to match | Matching a fixed column width on a page while letting the height fall where it may |
Two habits save most of the grief. Keep the aspect-ratio lock on unless you have a real reason to distort — a face squashed to fit a square is the classic tell of a rushed resize. And remember the direction rule: every mode above shrinks cleanly, but none can enlarge without softening, because the missing pixels have to be invented by interpolation. If you find yourself typing a bigger number than the original, stop and ask whether a higher-resolution source exists.
From pixels to centimetres: the DPI you cannot skip
A pixel has no physical width. It only becomes a centimetre or an inch once you also state a resolution — dots (really pixels) per inch — and multiply. That is why a tool cannot honestly offer a “resize to 10 cm” button without first asking at what DPI. The standard for photographic prints is 300 DPI; 150 DPI is a common draft or large-format figure where the viewer stands further back. Work out the pixels once, resize to them, and the print is correct regardless of what any header claims.
| Print size | Pixels at 300 DPI (photo) | Pixels at 150 DPI (draft) |
|---|---|---|
| 10 × 15 cm (4×6 in) | 1181 × 1772 | 591 × 886 |
| 13 × 18 cm (5×7 in) | 1535 × 2126 | 768 × 1063 |
| A6 (10.5 × 14.8 cm) | 1240 × 1748 | 620 × 874 |
| A4 (21 × 29.7 cm) | 2480 × 3508 | 1240 × 1754 |
| US Letter (8.5 × 11 in) | 2550 × 3300 | 1275 × 1650 |
Each figure is just centimetres ÷ 2.54 × DPI (inches skip the division). Now the part that trips people up: the DPI value stored inside an image file is metadata, not pixels. A canvas-produced file records a fixed 96 DPI in its resolution metadata, per the platform’s own behaviour, and a JFIF or PNG density field is likewise only a suggested print scale — changing it re-labels the file without touching a single pixel. Print and layout software reads that number to decide default size, but it will happily let you override it. So the reliable move is never to chase a DPI field; it is to resize to the pixel count the table gives, then set the paper size in whatever prints.
Meeting a file-size limit without wrecking the picture
“Under 2 MB”, “max 500 KB”, “image too large” — a size cap is usually about bytes, not dimensions, and the two are not the same lever. On a photograph the encoder’s quality setting moves the byte count far more than a modest pixel reduction does, so the first thing to try is almost always quality, not size. Which lever exists depends on the format.
| Format | The lever that shrinks it | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| JPEG | Quality — a value from 0 to 1 the encoder trades against size; reduce dimensions second | Lossy, no transparency. Best for photographs; the quality dial buys a lot of bytes for little visible change |
| WebP | Quality, like JPEG, but usually smaller for the same look; reduce dimensions second | Lossy or lossless, supports transparency, decoded by every current browser |
| PNG | Dimensions and colour count — there is no quality dial | Lossless with transparency. Ideal for logos and screenshots, heavy for photographs |
Under the hood the quality control is exactly the number the browser’s image encoder accepts — a value between 0 and 1 for lossy formats such as JPEG and WebP, per the canvas specification; PNG ignores it because it is lossless. So the recipe for a hard limit is mechanical: lower quality a step, check the size, repeat, and only start cutting pixels once quality has gone as far as the picture can stand. Doing this locally has a quiet bonus a lot of “compress to size” sites cannot offer — the image is never uploaded to be measured, so there is no file sitting on someone’s server while you fiddle with a slider. To squeeze a photograph harder after resizing, hand it to the image compressor; to change format entirely, the WebP converter is next door.
Reference tables
FAQ
How do I resize an image without losing quality?
Downscaling — making an image smaller — is the safe case, and it is what most people mean. There is no way to add real detail back, so the honest rule is: shrink freely, enlarge with caution. When you do shrink, the result depends on how the pixels are resampled; this tool draws to the browser canvas at its high smoothing setting, which averages neighbouring pixels rather than dropping them, so edges stay clean. Then keep quality high on save: JPEG at a high quality level, or PNG, which is lossless and loses nothing at all. What you cannot do is enlarge a 500-pixel image to 2000 and get sharpness — you get a bigger, softer version of the same detail.
Can I resize to an exact file size, like under 1 MB?
Yes, for JPEG and WebP, because both trade quality for size. To fit under a megabyte, lower the quality level a few steps and watch the resulting file size; on a photograph that usually gets you there long before the picture visibly suffers, and without changing the dimensions. If it still will not fit, reduce the pixel size as well. PNG is the exception: it is lossless, so there is no quality dial to turn — a PNG’s size comes from its dimensions and content, and the only way to make one meaningfully smaller is to resize it down or switch it to JPEG or WebP.
How do I resize a photo for printing at 10×15 cm?
Decide the print size and the resolution first, then resize to the pixels that produce them. The formula is pixels = centimetres ÷ 2.54 × DPI. A 10×15 cm print at 300 DPI — the usual figure for photo prints — needs about 1181×1772 pixels, so that is what you set here. The DPI number stored inside the file does not change the pixels and is not what makes the print sharp; the pixel count is. Set the paper size and DPI in the app or lab that does the actual printing, and give it an image with enough pixels. The guide below lists the common paper sizes worked out at 300 DPI.